Whoa training culminates with the use of remote cues to transition to game. (Photo courtesy of Susanna Love Smith)
In the last Whoa Training article we completed the Whoa Post series and were introducing the remote cue of the e-collar to a known point of contact on the flank to stop the dog. While there are many ways to teach whoa and tosteady a dog on game, we rely on the e-collar as a training tool because it keeps cues simple and easy for dogs to understand, allowing them to master the skill and be successful, no matter what their prior training has been. Confusion and indecision are the biggest challenges in dog training, and this stair-stepped process—with multiple safety checks along the way—has helped people from all walks of life be successful training dogs of a variety of backgrounds and behaviors.
By practicing the collar cue in a controlled environment without distractions, you set your dog up for success. (Photo courtesy of Susanna Love Smith)
Using E-Collars for Whoa Training
There are a myriad of reasons that we use e-collars in our training. The most compelling reason for us to use e-collars to handle our dogs is that they are the most effective remote tool available to ensure we can maintain immediate and effectivecommunication with our dogs, regardless of the situation in the field. A dog may be well out of earshot, completely engrossed in chasing some critter they shouldn’t, or headed directly toward danger, and by implementing the e-collar we can be confident in our ability to communicate with them and stop them. Stopping our dogs from a distance can potentially save their lives. Luckily, most of our collar communication is not done in response to dangerous situations, but e-collars are invaluable tools for effectively cuing a dog and enforcing trained behavior while the dog is at a distance.
We recommend introducing collars only once the dog has a solid understanding of how to respond to a mechanical cue (a cue from a rope or a leash is an example of a mechanical cue). In other words, teach the behavior first, then overlay a low-level collar cue to reinforce the behavior.
Every cue is specifically tailored to the dog’s mindset. An undistracted, compliant-minded dog will respond to a lower-level cue than a distracted, excited, or reactive dog. It is important to remember that whenever you ask something of your dog, you have to gain the dog’s awareness before you can gain compliance. We like our cues to be as light and subtle as possible to get the dog’s attention and then the dog’s compliance, and this idea of “less is more” holds true whether using an e-collar, a lead, or a verbal cue. In short, use the lowest level of stimulation necessary to gain awareness and compliance. The dog’s mindset and level of distraction will determine the appropriate level of stimulation in each scenario.
Practice Reps Using the Whoa Cammand
At Smith Kennels, we first begin using the e-collar for remote training after we have taught whoa on the Whoa Post, we practice in training areas with little or no distractions (a quiet mowed yard is a great place). During this session, we will initially check cord our dog in front of us and, as they are moving freely forward, we will cue them to stop with the e-collar. These practice stops are just that, practicing the cue. We won’t introduce birds in the scenario until the practice stops are at a high proficiency andthere is minimal chance of causing confusion by adding too many distractions too early in the dog’s experiences.
Just like stopping a horse with bit pressure, we use continuous stimulation from the e-collar, holding the continuous stimulation button down until the dog stops. The initial cues are always at the lowest setting, and we work up the levels ofstimulation until we see the dog becomes aware of the cue. Once there is an awareness, we stay at that level to slowly and easily stop the dog. We are looking to have the dog recognize the cue, consider what is being asked, and then calmly stop inresponse to that cue. As soon as the dog stands still, we release the button and cease stimulation. The goal here is to practice stopping your dog in a controlled environment until there is so much proficiency and comfort with the drill that an observer might not even realize the handler stopped the dog. To the observer, it should just look like the dog decided to stop and stand still on his own.
As proficiency is achieved, we add distractions and challenges. We want to be confident that our dog will stop in any situation and any environment without hesitation or confusion. We will begin practicing in areas with tall grass, where the dog is thinking about the possibility of game being present. From there, we can transition to the bird field and a backing situation.
Using the Word Whoa
Once dogs are performing a behavior perfectly when cued remotely, we name that behavior with a verbal command, in this instance, “whoa.” We don’t generally use the verbal before we have established the behavior because we only want to labelthe perfect behavior and not the imperfect. Once the behavior is reliable and replicable, we begin incorporating the word “whoa” in our sessions to build the dog’s association with the word.
Once you have created a remote cue for whoa, you can begin backing drills. (Photo courtesy of Susanna Love Smith)
Backing Another Dog
Once we are certain our dog has successfully mastered this new stage in training, then we are able to take them in the field and begin the actual steadying process. As with every training transition, we introduce new elements in as controlled a wayas possible. Going back to bird work at this stage, we begin with a backing situation as there is distance between the dog in training and the bird. Initially, we use remote backing dog cutouts, then we progress to live pointing dogs. Once the dog we are working sees the backing dog, we simply ask him to stop using low-level continuous stimulation. Someone then walks out in front of the automated backing dog and flushes a pigeon.
Dogs pick up on this drill pretty quickly, and typically within a couple of sessions we start adding a planted bird to the course for the training dog to point.
Whoa training needs to be applied on game to stop chasing and creeping. (Photo courtesy of Susanna Love Smith)
Stopping Chasing and Creeping
As we are turning our dogs loose in the field to point birds, we always begin with pigeons in launchers. With the push of a button, we can launch a bird, and we know that the pigeon will get up in the air and fly off the training field. This allows us more control of the situation, ensuring we can get the dog stopped without the dog catching a bird or getting to a bird on the ground.
Once our dogs catch scent, we give them the opportunity to point on their own (which most will do because we spend time shaping that behavior in our check-cording workouts during the early sessions). If a dog goes in hard to flush, or if a dog creeps up on a bird, we launch the bird remotely and stop the chase. There is no correction before the dog chases the flying bird. We stop the dog only when they are in pursuit of the bird, using low level continuous stimulation. As always, the cue is tailored to the dog and his mindset; therefore, a strong, hard-chasing dog can be stopped more quickly than a weaker dog with less prey drive.
The goal at this stage is to slowly shift the dog’s focus from chasing to pointing. We focus on getting the chase out of the dog’s mind more than we focus on perfecting steadiness. As the workouts progress, the dogs will have less and less tendency to chase. Soon, they will begin to stand still and watch the bird fly off. This is when we can begin stopping the dog’s creep or movement to flush the planted bird.
Most of the dogs we train will either be steady to wing, breaking on the shot (typically for gun dogs), or steady to wing and shot (typically guide dogs or trialing dogs). The steadying process, regardless of the level desired, can be initiated at this stage.
Having a Dog Steady on Game
As the dog gains steadiness on game, multiple flushes can be used as a quick way to build proficiency. We will also factor in retrieves once steadiness is established.
Once the dog is steady, we begin the transition to all collar cues on the neck. We also transition from pigeons to game birds about that time. At this point, we can introduce a flushing dog to flush in front of the pointing dog as well. All of these additional variables add stimulation and higher levels of complexity to the game but also allow us to ensure the composure of each dog. From here, the solid foundations of pointing as taught with the Whoa Post are complete, but the lessons learned can be practiced and refined in and out of the field throughout the life of the dog.
And that, in a nutshell, is how we use the Smith Method of training to steady dogs on game. As with any training, there are nuances that cause changes in the format to fit each individual dog and adapt to different situations. Keeping the basics in mind at all times and never forgetting to watch the animal and adapt the training session to the dog’s mindset will always bring forward the best in each animal.